The Reserve Proprietary Red Wine is benefitting from Sterling's new non-interventionist winemaking philosophy. The rich, multidimensional, concentrated 1991 Reserve (a blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 8% Petite Verdot) displays a saturated dark ruby/purple color, and a promising nose of black-cherries, cassis, minerals, and spicy oak. It is medium-bodied, with admirable complexity, some sweetness from ripe fruit, and a rich, moderately tannic finish. It will improve for 3-4 years and last for well over a decade. Significant winemaking changes are underway at the beautiful Sterling winery perched on a hilltop south of Calistoga. For some time I have been an outspoken critic of this winery, as it was one of California's leading underachievers. Despite huge financial resources and great vineyards, many of the wines tasted processed, excessively acidified, and devoid of aromatics and flavor after bottling. Winemaker Bill Dyer, an accomplished, talented man, appears to have gotten the attention of the corporate owners because top red wine cuvees from the 1992 and 1993 vintages are destined, according to Dyer, to go into the bottle naturally. One can also detect less acidification and a more natural texture and taste. All of this will immensely benefit the consumer, for if this winery has awakened as much as my instincts suggest, such a development can only have a positive influence on California winemaking.California readers should consider getting their name on Sterling's mailing list as they are also making small quantities of high quality Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese, and limited production cuvees of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that are only sold at the winery. Tel. 1-800-726-6136; Fax (707) 942-3467.