The 2008 Pinot Noir Sanford & Benedict shows lovely focus, depth and vibrancy. It is one of the fresher wines in this lineup of 2008 Pinots. Dark cherries, spices and licorice are some of the notes that flow from this graceful Pinot. A juicy, enveloping finish rounds things out nicely. The Sanford & Benedict was made from a Mt. Eden clone. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2016. The Chardonnays and Pinots are the highlights among these new releases from Bonaccorsi Wine Company. I was less enamored with the 2007 Syrahs I tasted. The Pinots are vinified with indigenous yeasts and spend 18 months in French oak barrels, 60% new for all wines except the Melville, which gets 70%.Tel. (310) 994-3207; www.bonawine.net

From older vines comes this very dry, tannic young wine. It has a distinguished minerality anchoring the black cherry, cola and spice flavors. Almost old fashioned in style, with some ruggedness to the texture. Give it until after 2014. ——S.H.(10/1/2011)—— 92