Purple plum tinged with plum pit bitterness in Chauvenet’s 2007 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Argillas are reminiscent of the corresponding Charmottes, but here there are alluring notes of curry and brown spices as well as caramel from wood all allied to a positive sense of sap and fresh fruit, indeed an overall sense of vivacity unusual for its vintage. There is a more noticeable tannic bite here than in the Charmottes, one which slightly mars the exuberance of the finish. This will probably benefit from another 2-3 years of cellaring and be best enjoyed in the several years thereafter. Hubert Chauvenet testified to normal malos (i.e. finishing in spring – the wines’ first spring that is!). He points to the bright red of his successful 2008s as witness to the health of the corresponding fruit, whereas the 2007s had by the same stage already taken on a hint of garnet, and he tends to agree with me that many 2007s – in which, naturally he did not include his own! – were at their most exuberant and expressive while still in cask. Vigilant canopy-management and aggressive fruit-dropping have long been constants here. Chauvenet’s cellar has now been arranged to permit delivery of his fruit to the fermentation vats via conveyor and to eliminate pumping, and the refinement of tannins and clarity of fruit I witnessed in the best of these 2008s – especially considering that their author still favors high levels of new wood – can almost surely be traced to those developments. And speaking of clarity, Chauvenet pointed out that several of his 2008s are on the edge of what he deems acceptable turbidity and unfortunately resisted naturally clarifying to any greater degree. But after due consideration, he decided to bottle, as usual, without filtration, a wise move I would guess, given how well these 2008s have turned out.Imported by Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832 9083
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