The deep ruby/purple-hued 2004 Valandraud exhibits a classic bouquet of white chocolate, espresso roast, creme de cassis, cherry jam, and a hint of barbecue spices. Medium to full-bodied, powerful, rich, structured, and pure, it is another top-notch effort from proprietor Jean-Luc Thunevin. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025.