The demi-muid-aged 2000 Ermitage Chante Alouette displays aromas of lychee nuts, apricot jam, peaches, and honeysuckle in its medium to full-bodied, powerful personality. As the wine sits in the glass, notions of nuts and fino sherry also emerge. It should drink well for 10-15 years. These uncompromising offerings from a young genius are not meant for consumers who want something to drink immediately. They are the essence of bio-dynamically farmed vineyard sites cropped incredibly low, given extended fermentations with indigenous yeasts, and rarely touched until they go into the bottle unfined and unfiltered. In most vintages, the wines are not even racked off their lees, which only adds to their natural style. These are truly remarkable wines, but for most readers, patience is the operative rule as they generally need a good 8-10 years to strut their stuff. Once moribund, over the last 12 years, this firm has become one of the reference points for nearly all the Rhone Valley appellations since the brash yet immensely talented Michel Chapoutier took over in the late eighties. The single vineyard offerings are as good as Rhone Valley wines can be. Moreover, Chapoutier continues to upgrade the quality of those wines offered in more significant quantities than the 500 or so cases each of the single vineyard offerings. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

More forward and modern than De L’Oree, this bottling is clean, overtly fruity and ultimately very stylish. Butterscotch notes start it off, followed by peach, melon and apple flavors. Overall there’s undeniable fruit quality here. The finish is round, substantive and long, and here you’ll find notes of honey and white pepper. For a Northern Rhone white, it’s accessible and not too bitter or tight. ——M.S.(9/1/2003)—— 91