The first impression is of a very hot wine. The official label reading is 14.9 percent alcohol, but it feels higher, with a tingly, peppery feeling through the finish. The flavors are of blackberry jam and cassis, white chocolate and immense spice, and while the wine is dry, it’s very rich and expressive. The tannins are soft and lush, in the modern style. ——S.H.(3/1/2004)—— 87