Still on the youthful side, the 1982 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru from Domaine Chevalier was superb (and strongly reminiscent of the Bonneau du Matray wines in their heyday). Notes of lemon oil, iodine, chalky soil tones and white flowers, framed by a touch of hazelnut, are the prelude to an impressively concentrated, incisive wine with a bottomless core, lovely purity and a searingly intense finish. On tasting this, the lone bottle of 1978 resting in my cellar instantly became one of my more treasured possessions. This could continue to improve for more than a decade.