The 2007 Roero Riserva Renesio is impressive. It possesses remarkable intensity and power in its dark fruit, flowers, mint and spices, all of which meld together beautifully. The Renesio shows fabulous depth and richness through to the finish. This dark, virile Roero is well worth the effort of tracking down. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. Malvira is one of Roero's most inspired producers. In particular readers should focus on the estate's Arneis and Roero bottlings. Importers: Beverly Malen Imports Inc., Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 227-9463, Ibanez Pleven Offerings, New York, NY; tel. (212) 243-9463; Domace Vino, Shoreview, MN; tel. (612) 501-5799; Dionysus Imports, Houston, TX; tel. (713) 822-8007; Imports Inc., Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 227-9463; Triage Wines, Portland, OR; tel. (206) 883-0543; Trilussa Wine Company, San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 499-8466; Natural Wines, Boulder, CO; tel.-(303) 588-6122; Vino Vino, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 665-7515

There’s a note of wet earth or rubber that emerges from the bouquet before the fruit tones do. Once the wine is given more time in the glass, dried prune and cassis come through. This wine’s tight, compact style would pair with most easy meat dishes. ——M.L.(9/1/2011)—— 85