The dense ruby/purple-tinged 2005 St.-Joseph Les Challeys possesses aromas of crushed rocks, creme de cassis, and liquid minerals as well as a medium-bodied finish. It should be consumed over the next decade. As I have written many times in the past, this famous estate, which muddled along in the seventies, eighties, and early nineties, was reborn when its owners, the Deutz-Roederer Champagne enterprise, brought in the super-talented Jacques Granges, and gave him carte blanche to redo the cellars and elevate the level of quality. Since his first vintage, 1997, Delas has become one of the superb purveyors of high quality Rhone wine. I have enormous admiration for what Granges has accomplished. His most recent vintages, 2005 and 2006, have been brilliant and he continues to do a superb job with the white wines Readers should also know that Delas recently purchased 37 acres of vines in Crozes-Hermitage, so they will be augmenting their production from that appellation. The bottled 2005 reds include some interesting efforts from some of the better villages in the south. The Chateauneuf du Papes and Cotes du Rhones were reviewed in issue #173 (October, 2007) Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Open-knit for the vintage, with lots of forward fruitcake, raspberry and boysenberry fruit. Long and juicy through the finish, which picks up dark toast and incense notes. Not imported into the U.S. Drink now through 2011. 7,080 cases made. -JM