The Malbec—firm and muscular—is amplified with 23% Cabernet Sauvignon from the estimable Bacchus vineyard. The wine is dark, what some call brooding, with tight, spicy boysenberry fruit, wrapped in smoky tannins. It seems to be holding something in reserve, for it tails off after an auspicious beginning once it hits the mid-palate. Tannins are well-managed but astringent; this wine needs a few more years in the cellar to show its best. ——P.G.(11/1/2008)—— 89