The 2017 Rasteau Les Valats—a blend of 80% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre and 10% Syrah—is rather rubbery and reductive out of bottle, a marked contrast to its showing from tank last year. Full-bodied and velvety, with dark-fruited flavors and notes of mocha on the finish, it's notably more harmonious on the palate than on the nose.

Earth, black olive and plummy fruit combine on the nose of the 2016 Rasteau Les Valats. It's a bit rugged, but in a good way, with savory tannins framing the dark flavors and lingering on the finish. Dark and dusty, it calls out for grilled meat.

Super-ripe black plums and blackberries with attractive woodsy forest floor savory notes. bright juicy flavors of raspberry, mocha, clove and creamy toffee. Smooth, creamy texture but with firm grip to the tannins and a long savory earthy finish. Has nice complexity. ——W.E.(10/15/2010)—— 89