Light cherry notes quickly give way to astringent tannins in this firm, austere red. Drink now through 2016. 1,666 cases made.??–BS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Dolcetto d'Alba Select to Add

Aged only in stainless steel, Albino Rocco’s delightful 2012 Dolcetto d’Alba Vignalunga delivers medium density and staying power and shows obvious layers of blackberry and black cherry. The mouthfeel is tight and elegantly compacted. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2015. No known American importer.

Round and full of cherry fruit, this red is open and ready to enjoy with salumi or pizza. Shows a hint of black pepper and tannins at the end. Drink now. 1,660 cases made.??–BS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Dolcetto d'Alba Select to Add

Angelo Rocca's 2011 Dolcetto d-Alba Vignalunga is a pretty, floral wine laced with varietal dark blue and black fruit. A bout of cool weather towards the end of the growing season produced a Dolcetto that is a little less juicy than is typically the case here. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2014. I was shocked and saddened to learn that proprietor Angelo Rocca recently passed away in a crash involving his own light airplane. I visited with Rocca in late August, just as the Moscato was coming in. Rocca embodied the spirit of the self-made Piemontese grower who took a sleepy family-run winery and turned it into a world-class estate in just one generation. He will be deeply missed. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887

The 2010 Dolcetto d’Alba Vignalunga is terrific. It is a typical wine for the year, long in aromatics and structure, but less obvious in its fruit than some past vintages. Tar, smoke, licorice and blueberry jam wrap around the energetic, wiry finish. This is a fabulous wine for the dinner table. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015. This is a terrific set of wines from Angelo Rocca. The Barbareschi in particular have become much more refined over the last few vintages than was the case previously. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119