The 2009 Bourgogne Aligote is strikingly beautiful. It reveals gorgeous finesse in its layered fruit, considerable textural richness and a long, polished finish. The Bourgogne Aligote is a compelling example of what can be achieved when the focus is on the vineyards. This is the humblest wine in the lineup, yet I would be glad to drink it any day of the week. It is that outstanding. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2016. My visit to this tiny estate in Courgis was a highlight of my recent stay in Chablis. These fabulous wines from Olivier and Alice de Moor are all the more remarkable because the de Moors own no premier or grand cru land. Through diligent, painstaking work Alice and Oliver de Moor have elevated their wines well above their humble pedigrees, showing just how much can be done when the focus is purely on growing the best fruit possible. Biodynamic farming and artisan winemaking are the rule here. The wines are aged 10-12 months in oak, see one racking and are bottled with no fining or filtration. Simply put, these are some of the most pure, striking wines readers will come across in Chablis, where so many wines are quite industrial. I was blown away by what I tasted. Readers should do whatever they can to taste these fine, handcrafted wines. The world could use a few more vignerons like the de Moors. I have listed the wines from Le Vendangeur Masque, the de Moor’s negociant line, separately.Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191

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From young vines in Chitry, their 2006 Bourgogne Aligote displays a surprising amount of sheer stuffing, with typical scents and flavors of lemon pip, cherries and toasted almonds, chicken stock, and herbs. Clear, refined, and refreshing in finish for all of its doughy substantiality, this will prove highly versatile if never outstandingly complex over the next couple of years. With only a 35 hectoliter per hectare average yield, and given batches of high-alcohol Saint Bris and Chablis stuck with more than merely awkward residual sugar (as of last winter), one could hardly call 2006 a commercially successful year for the De Moors. But their best wines from this vintage are nonetheless admirable.Importer: Vintage 59, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9812

One of the finest Bourgogne Aligotes I have ever experienced, the de Moor’s 2002 explodes from the glass with huge waves of spices and clove-studded pears. Medium-bodied, thick, and velvety-textured, it coats the taster’s palate with copious quantities of pepper laced sweet pears. Rich, lush, and sensual, this broad, ample, pure wine resets the bar for Aligote producers. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. Importer: A Roy Cloud Selection, Vintage ‘59 Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9218