Very even and steady, the 2017 Alto Adige Pinot Bianco Haberle doles out its aromas in a very careful manner. There is some beautiful natural rubber and some heavier aromas in there, too. It gets a bit sticky on the close as the heaviness builds. The unctuous and fatty-textured mouthfeel reflects the warm conditions of the vintage. Some 15,333 bottles were made.

You get excellent value here. The 2016 Alto Adige Pinot Bianco Haberle is a mid-weight wine with an initial bouquet that is slightly shut down and closed. That reductive approach means that the wine takes a little while to rev up and open. Once it does, it offers stone fruit and smooth fruity ingenuity. There is elegance and beauty here with delicate mineral notes on the close. Your patience is rewarded for sure. Some 13,300 bottles were produced.

The 2012 Alto Adige Pinot Bianco Haberle is the only wine in this tasting not distinguished by the “Tenutae Lageder” brand name. It is also one of my favorite expressions of Pinot Bianco from northern Italy. The aromatic clarity and precision of the wine are both outstanding. Aromas of white peach, pear, honeysuckle, vanilla cream or custard and cantaloupe melon are delineated and bright. The richness of those tones transfers seamlessly to the palate where the wine is fresh but also shows good weight and richness. The wine undergoes sur lie aging for up to six months.

The 2009 Pinot Bianco Haberle emerges with green pears, apples, flowers and minerals, all of which are wrapped around a focused, energetic frame. Floral notes reappear on the finish, adding a wonderful sense of lift and balance. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. This is the finest set of wines I have tasted from Alois Lageder. The Alois Lageder line is made from purchased fruit, while the winery has introduced a new label, Tenutae Lageder, to identify the estate wines, many of which are made from biodynamically farmed vineyards. I will report on Lageder’s higher-end bottlings later this year. Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405