Destined for July bottling, Alzingers’ 2010 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Steinertal already anticipates in its aromas of Szechuan pepper, Latakia tobacco, and pungent green herbs the typical smokiness and bite associated with its site, here ravishingly wreathed in hyacinth and iris. Fresh lime, yellow plum, and white peach inform a lusciously-expansive, satin-textured palate. Sheer extract, along with near-14% alcohol make for a delectable suggestion of sweetness, even though this harbors less than three grams of residual sugar. The dynamic, tactilely-detectable interaction of fruit, herb, and peppery mineral notes is spell-binding as well as exhilarating. Look for(ward to) the better part of two decades’ continued excitement. The Alzingers didn’t begin harvesting until the third week of October in 2010 and continued until November 18. Riesling Federspiel alone was de-acidified (as must). Leo Alzinger senior confirmed the judgment of other Wachau veterans that there was no known precedent for the combination of high acidity; sugar; and extract with genuine phenolic ripeness and next to no botrytis. (Somehow I missed out, incidentally, on tasting this year’s Liebenberg Riesling Smaragd.)Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

A brilliant, fresh wine, beautifully integrated, bringing together green apple, papaya and intense acidity. The texture has spice, nutmeg and ginger to go with the taut minerality. A wine for aging. ——R.V.(10/1/2010)—— 93

Alzinger’s 2007 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Steinertal smells of melon, green bean, and smoky tobacco, black tea, and Szechuan pepper, all of which figure on a luscious, refreshing, let darkly-hued palate. The depth of flavors beneath the silken, polished surface of this wine is riveting, and the finish is possessed of what I can only describe as an ore-like depth of minerality along with peppery, zesty, and smoky pungency. This, too, should merit a decade or more of cellaring. Leo Alzinger senior’s lucid account of the 2007 vintage can be found in the general introduction to this report. After the extraordinary collection that he and his son, Leo, fielded from 2006, its successor – while different in personality – did not disappoint one bit. (I don’t know whether this was punishment for past sins, but I am sorry to have to report that your correspondent was not offered an opportunity to taste Riesling Smaragd bottlings from Liebenberg and Hohereck.)Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300