Is this the finest single-vineyard Merlot in the country? It certainly can stake a claim to that distinction, with its bright, dense, vibrant scents of berry and cherry, its muscular tannins and deeply concentrated fruit flavors enhanced with the dark notes of earth and iron from Klipsun soil and the relentless wind that toughens the grape skins. Decant this one early. ——P.G.(12/15/2004)—— 94