Apolloni seems to be the first Oregon winery to take advantage of a change in the state’s labeling laws allowing Pinot Grigio to be used; previously Pinot Gris was required. This is in fact much like a classic Italian Pinot Grigio, crisp and acidic, with sharply-defined citrus, melon and green apple fruit. Clean and refreshing, it carries a lovely floral note through the persistent finish.——P.G.(10/1/2008)—— 89