The Apollonio 2012 Negroamaro Terragnolo is a ripe and robust expression of the mighty Negroamaro grape. As its Italian name suggests, Negroamaro delivers bitterness and blackness, both in abundance. Those intense contrasts are what give this wine its food-friendly appeal because that "amaro," or sourness, makes a perfect partner to sweet foods such as potatoes dauphinoise. That powerful 15% alcohol will cut through the heavy cream and Gruyère cheese in that dish. This is a dark, ripe and enriched hot-climate red wine. Some 100,000 bottles were made.

The 2010 Negroamaro Terragnolo aspires to reach the outer limits of ripeness and sweet opulence. This is a super-rich wine that has hungrily absorbed the abundant sunshine of Puglia. It presents a towering wall of thick, jammy blackberry fruit as a result. Beyond that wall are distinct notes of barbecue spice and Teriyaki smoke that add to the overall richness and power of this wine. There's nothing subtle or understated here.