One of two late-release wines from Ar. Pe. Pe., the 2013 Valtellina Superiore Grumello Riserva Buon Consiglio is a beautifully light and delicate expression of Nebbiolo with a lean, ruby-tinged appearance. The wine ages to silkiness and extreme suppleness, and I cannot help but notice the unique aromas of toasted hazelnut, mountain flower and balsam herb that rise so delicately from the bouquet. These results are exquisite and ultra delicate, giving the wine a lithe or ethereal personality. What a beauty. Only 6,000 bottles were released.

Elegant and tightly-knit, the 2005 Valtellina Superiore Grumello Riserva Buon Consiglio reveals a light ruby color and pretty luminosity. The wine remains very faithful to the Nebbiolo grape with finessed aromas of dried berry, resin, violet and tar. Compared to other years, the 2005 vintage (that was a bit warmer than average) is less nuanced and complex. But the wine is very steady, silky and smooth in terms of the mouthfeel.

The 1999 Valtellina Superiore Grumello Riserva Buon Consiglio emerges from the glass with dried cherries, licorice, fennel, dried herbs and crushed rose petals. The aromas and flavors are fairly advanced, yet the wine retains considerable sweetness, not to mention tons of minerality. The Buon Consiglio is all about textural finesse. It is already somewhat evolved and even a touch fragile at times. Ideally it is best enjoyed over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. Readers who enjoy traditionally made Nebbioli will delight in these wines from Ar.Pe.Pe, which is an acronym of sorts for founder Arturo Pelizzatti Perego. The Ar.Pe.Pe. wines capture the essence of what makes Valtellina a unique winemaking region. Even better, the estate releases many of these selections with a few years of bottle age, giving consumers the opportunity to drink perfectly stored wines with a measure of tertiary complexity. Importer: Grand Cru Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 974-2500