The 2007 Valtellina Superiore Riserva Sassella Rocce Rosse is another gorgeous creation from Ar. Pe. Pe. That two-year difference does come through when you taste this wine next to the other new releases from the 2009 vintage that I have also reviewed for this report. There are more tangible hints of the wine's evolution here with crushed stone, licorice and pressed rose. Don't get me wrong, there is plenty of fruit left here too, and I would argue that it shows with more brilliance and freshness in this wine from the Valtellina region compared to many Nebbiolo-based wines made at lower altitudes in Piedmont. Smoke, tar and redcurrant round off the focused, yet beautifully articulate mouthfeel. Some 17,000 bottles were produced.

The 2001 Valtellina Superiore Sassella Riserva Rocce Rosse opens to an elegant and luminous ruby color. This is a stunning wine with a level of elegance and inner finesse that speaks to the impressive potential of the mountainous Valtellina wine region. The feminine grace of the wine is what stands out most of all. The bouquet is finely laced with dried rose petal, wild berry, licorice, cola and pressed violet. In the mouth, the wine shows some graphite and ash-like flavors with very smooth and silky tannins. This wine is almost 15-years-old, but it tastes so much younger.

The 1997 Valtellina Superiore Sassella Riserva Rocce Rosse is another totally beguiling wine. Here, too, there is plenty of sweetness in the fruit to balance some of the more forward notes in the bouquet. Autumn leaves, earthiness, tar, licorice and fennel emerge as the wine sits in the glass. All of the elements have aged gracefully in this complete, hugely expressive wine. A generous, inviting finish leaves a lasting impression. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Readers who enjoy traditionally made Nebbioli will delight in these wines from Ar.Pe.Pe, which is an acronym of sorts for founder Arturo Pelizzatti Perego. The Ar.Pe.Pe. wines capture the essence of what makes Valtellina a unique winemaking region. Even better, the estate releases many of these selections with a few years of bottle age, giving consumers the opportunity to drink perfectly stored wines with a measure of tertiary complexity. Importer: Grand Cru Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 974-2500