The 1997 Valtellina Superiore Sassella Riserva Rocce Rosse is another totally beguiling wine. Here, too, there is plenty of sweetness in the fruit to balance some of the more forward notes in the bouquet. Autumn leaves, earthiness, tar, licorice and fennel emerge as the wine sits in the glass. All of the elements have aged gracefully in this complete, hugely expressive wine. A generous, inviting finish leaves a lasting impression. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Readers who enjoy traditionally made Nebbioli will delight in these wines from Ar.Pe.Pe, which is an acronym of sorts for founder Arturo Pelizzatti Perego. The Ar.Pe.Pe. wines capture the essence of what makes Valtellina a unique winemaking region. Even better, the estate releases many of these selections with a few years of bottle age, giving consumers the opportunity to drink perfectly stored wines with a measure of tertiary complexity. Importer: Grand Cru Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 974-2500