Kesselers 2009 Lorcher Schlossberg Riesling Spatlese trocken offers an alluringly-scented, lush yet tinglingly invigorating amalgam of white peach and apricot with pungent herbs and citrus rind. Substantial yet lively, this evinces very slight heat from this 13% alcohol, but that fits its blazing finishing intensity and in no way obscures the wines citric refreshment or sense of underlying stoniness. I would plan on enjoying it over the coming 3-5 years. August Kesseler and his cellarmaster Max Himstedt promise great things from their 2009 Pinot Noirs but they were not yet ready to show them last September. In light of that allegedly outstanding quality as well as of the difficult market, they decided that their 2008 collection in red should culminate at the Cuvee Max quality level and not include vineyard-designated bottlings. In his usual conservative and market-sensitive approach, Kesseler also elected to bottle from 2009 one of his smallest Riesling collections in memory, inter alia forgoing any attempt to capture what little botrytis was present. Irrigation was critical during the late summer drought, insists Kesseler, “otherwise, we would have harvested grapes in the Rudesheimer Berg of only 80 or 85 Oechsle.”Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802
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