The 2006 Rudesheimer Bischofsberg Riesling Spatlese Gold Capsule mingles orange, peach, marzipan, vanilla, and honey and once again displays the refinement, purity, creaminess of texture, and overt sweetness that characterize this vintage at Kesseler as a whole. Heady lily and heliotrope floral notes perfume the proceedings, complementing the wine’s almost stifling sweetness, but also its wafting sense of lightness. A little bit of this Riesling – like a dab of perfume – could go a long way. But it is difficult to resist its initial sweet seductiveness. It should be savored on its own and can be cellared for 10-12 years. Kesseler suffered a 50% loss in crop from his long-term average, but ruthless selectivity on top of his usual low yields paid dividends in quality albeit at the price of prominent sweetness. Kesseler attempted neither a Kabinett, nor (insisting that botrytis and alcohol would have been too evident) did he essay any dry wines from his estate holdings in Rudesheim. The 2005 vintage reds – bottled in mid-2007 – have fulfilled their excellent promise. Needless to say, from these steep stone sites, and cropped at the levels requisite for top quality, Kesseler Pinot Noirs do not come cheap. But they certainly invite comparison with red Burgundies selling for comparable prices. And while they are all very ripe, none of these 2005s betray their alcohol in bitterness or heat.Various importers including: Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA tel. 800 362 4420; Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland, OR; tel. (503) 236-9370

There is only one Spatlese from the Bischofsberg, but due to the high (botrytis-free) ripeness of the fruit, it was bottled as 2004 Rudesheimer Bischofsberg Riesling Spatlese Gold Capsule. Aromas of grapefruit, pear, and quince usher in a creamy, rich mouthful of the aforementioned fruits that is delicate, yet spreads flavor all across the back of the palate. This might not be the last word in complexity but it has enormous sheer sensual appeal. Not many years ago, August Kesseler was vinifying – in addition to the Pinot Noirs for which he has long been known – almost entirely dry Rieslings that were seldom seen outside Germany. Nowadays, he is reveling in residually sweet Rieslings and has launched an aggressive export program with the intention of becoming a major force in the U.S. market. Given the amazing price/quality rapport of some of the wines I tasted, he should succeed brilliantly in that endeavor.Various importers including: Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel. (800) 362-4420; Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland, OR; tel. (50) 236-9370