Taking its odd name from the distance marker on the Rhine at Rudesheim, Kesseler’s 2006 Riesling Spatlese 530.3 represents a blend of top-quality material from the Rudesheimer Berg. The intention is for the wine so-labeled to be dry-tasting, but Kesseler rejected that possibility out of hand this year as the alcohol would, he says, have been excessive. Grapefruit, kumquat, honey, malt, and nougat make for a rich, enveloping, polished Riesling, but there is enough citricity underlying this to donate liveliness and refreshment, and enough stony suggestion of slate to help balance its effusive fruitiness and near-confectionary notes of nut paste and caramel. This lush, long wine should develop nicely for at least 7-9 years. Kesseler suffered a 50% loss in crop from his long-term average, but ruthless selectivity on top of his usual low yields paid dividends in quality albeit at the price of prominent sweetness. Kesseler attempted neither a Kabinett, nor (insisting that botrytis and alcohol would have been too evident) did he essay any dry wines from his estate holdings in Rudesheim. The 2005 vintage reds – bottled in mid-2007 – have fulfilled their excellent promise. Needless to say, from these steep stone sites, and cropped at the levels requisite for top quality, Kesseler Pinot Noirs do not come cheap. But they certainly invite comparison with red Burgundies selling for comparable prices. And while they are all very ripe, none of these 2005s betray their alcohol in bitterness or heat.Various importers including: Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA tel. 800 362 4420; Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland, OR; tel. (503) 236-9370

The curiously-labeled 2004 Riesling Spatlese “530.3” refers to the distance marker on the Rhine at Rudesheim. This dry-tasting Riesling is intended as a wine of “Erstes Gewachs” quality standards that Kesseler thinks can best be achieved on an annual basis by availing himself of the option to blend, in this instance Berg Schlossberg with Berg Roseneck. It smells of peaches and herbs, with a whiff of sea breeze. The palate impression is rich and juicy, with prominent peach and grapefruit mingled with cardamom, orange zest and herbs. This exhibits a terrific combination of chewy density with refreshment and brightness. A strong, long finish introduces smoky, charry notes to accompany the spiced orchard fruits, herbs, citrus, salt and wet stone. There are only around 7,000 bottles of this impressive Riesling. Not many years ago, August Kesseler was vinifying – in addition to the Pinot Noirs for which he has long been known – almost entirely dry Rieslings that were seldom seen outside Germany. Nowadays, he is reveling in residually sweet Rieslings and has launched an aggressive export program with the intention of becoming a major force in the U.S. market. Given the amazing price/quality rapport of some of the wines I tasted, he should succeed brilliantly in that endeavor.Various importers including: Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel. (800) 362-4420; Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland, OR; tel. (50) 236-9370