The 2007 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva Grandi Annate is a freakishly ripe, exotic wine full of contradictions. Though texturally quite brilliant and polished, the fruit is excessively sweet, even within the most forgiving of parameters. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2025. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to taste the complete line-up from Avignonesi this year. The Cortona Desiderio and both Vin Santos had not been bottled as we went to press. Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405

The estate’s 2006 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva Grandi Annate has the body and structural components to balance its super-ripe dark fruit. Black cherries, mint, licorice and white flowers are some of the aromas and flavors that take shape in this extroverted, unusual Vino Nobile. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2026. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to taste the complete line-up from Avignonesi this year. The Cortona Desiderio and both Vin Santos had not been bottled as we went to press. Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405