The 2009 Rami is an attractive blend of Inzolia and Grecanico aged in concrete. Layers of sweet perfumed apricots, dried flowers and orange peel come together beautifully in this textured, elegant white. This is a lovely, polished effort. The Rami was fermented in cement. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. This is quite possibly the finest set of wines I have ever tasted from COS. Readers owe it to themselves to check out these ambitious wines, many of which also deliver phenomenal value.Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The 2008 Rami (Insolia, Grecanico) is a deeply hued white layered with apricots, flowers and hints of earthiness. The rich fruit leads to a round, creamy finish that should allow the Rami to stand up to fairly bold flavors. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012. This is a fabulous set of new releases from COS, one of Sicily’s leading producers.Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The 2007 Rami (Inzolia, Grecanico) is a pretty, floral white from Sicily. This crisp, zesty white offers excellent length and purity in a clean, refreshing style. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2010. These are two pretty wines from COS, one of the early leaders of high quality winemaking in Sicily.Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The 2006 Rami (50% Inzolia, 50% Grecanico) shows lovely purity in its perfumed aromatics, apricots and minerals. Drink this medium-bodied, accessible white over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2010.Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799