The 2010 Reserva Vinho Verde, from winemaker Anselmo Mendes, is 100% Loureiro, fermented in tank. I didn’t like this much at all when it was cold, but to its credit, I liked it more and more as it evolved. Opening steely and hard edged, it became friendlier and fruity while retaining its crispness and minerality as it aired out and warmed up. Coming in at 12%, it is not light, but not ponderous either. Drink now.

The 2009 Reserva Douro is a “big three” blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca aged for 6 months in a mixture of new and old French oak. This year’s version of this bottling is ripe and flavorful, although light and without much mid-palate concentration. The wine has modest structure, but seems elegant in the mid-palate, with a focused, silky demeanor and just a slight roasted note, a warm climate wine soaking up the sun, that resolves somewhat as it airs out. Despite its price range, this is very much a wine that will need some food. Drink now-2015.

The 2007 RESERVA Alentejano is a blend of Aragonez, Trincadeira and Alicante Bouschet produced by Vale de Joana-Cabecao. If there is one thing Alentejo is noted for, it is producing crowd-pleasing, easy drinking wines with good fruit and tons of charm. This seems to be a different animal, showing good structure—as all of the wines from Azul Portugal have showed—and a more brooding demeanor. It has a big wine feel at times and some considerable merit considering the modest price point, but relatively little charm. As it airs out, it develops a touch of funk and herbs, perhaps the Trincadeira asserting itself, with underlying red fruit notes as well, likely the Alicante Bouschet struggling to be noticed. A couple years in the cellar may let this come together in a more harmonious way. It is admirable for its depth and intensity, but a little hard to warm up to. All that said—it would be one thing if this were a discussion of a $40 wine, but there is an awful lot of wine here for the likely street price in the low to mid-teens. If it is to your stylistic preference, it is a very good value, a relatively serious wine with considerable character and some upside potential for a bargain wine price. Drink 2011-2018. These wines, from Wines and Winemakers by Saven, are meant to create under one brand name (Azul Portugal) a series of wines representing regions in Portugal. Hence, they have Azul Portugal Douro, Azul Portugal Alentejo, and so on. The wines are made for the brand by various winemakers and wineries, who actually produce the wines. As a group, these wines have two things in common: they all have fine structure and they provide a considerable amount of bang for the buck. They drink well for modest money and can easily be confused with more expensive wines. Each one is worth a look.Importer: Iberia Wines & Spirits, East Hartford, CT; tel: (860) 291-8988