The 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Olive Hill Estate Vineyards Special Selection’s dense ruby/purple color is followed by a sweet bouquet filled with notes of creme de cassis, plums, assorted berry fruits, and background oak. Medium to full-bodied with excellent purity, texture, and depth, this 2004 can be drunk now, but will be even better in 1-2 years. It should last for 15+ years. Tel. (707) 938-4064; Fax (707) 938-4585

This is a limited production 100% Cab from the winery’s estate vineyard. It’s much more tannic than Cohn’s extraordinarily fine ’04 Estate, which was released a year ago. Even at the age of five-plus, it stings with sandpapery astringency. Should easily negotiate the years, with its massive core of blackberries, black currants, olives and 100% new oak. Hold until after 2010, and should develop for many years beyond.——S.H.(12/31/2009)—— 93

——W.E.(8/1/2003)—— 86