Bright and easygoing, the 2010 Recioto della Valpolicella Valpantena is loaded tight with blackberry pie, sweet spice, prune, cherry liqueur, cola and baking spice. The wine shows mild sweetness that you definitely register on the palate, but it is not overwhelming. The structure is firm and the finish is driven by loads of fresh cherry. Drink 2014-2018. Anyone who frequented Verona’s famed Bottega del Vino wine bar in its glory days will remember the Bertani “altar” set up in the downstairs cellar. Carefully erected under its own pool of light, the shrine consisted of important vintages arranged into a giant pyramid with magnum-sized wooden cases at the base. Small church candles flickered at the perimeter. That altar to a single brand, so revered and holy to the Veronesi, always comes to mind when I taste Bertani’s wines. This cherished symbol of Valpolicella is a beacon for those who appreciate the storied winemaking customs of the region. In 2011, Bertani was purchased by Tenimenti Angelini (a branch of the Angelini Group pharmaceutical firm). Despite the new ownership, Bertani remains one of the most consistent producers of traditional Amarone. Importer: Palm Bay Imports, www.palmbay.com

Candied cherry and blackberry fruit flavors mix with crème de cassis, balsamic and nut-tinged Sherry notes. Creamy, with hints of cocoa powder and dried mint on the finish. Drink now. 20,000 cases made.??–AN??Region: Italy / Recioto della Valpolicella Valpantena Select to Add

The 2006 Recioto della Valpolicella Valpantena is a delicious, accessible wine bursting with dark cherry jam, chocolate, spices and leather. This soft, caressing Recioto possesses superb balance, with bright perfumed aromatics that add further clarity and lift on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2018. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

The 2005 Recioto della Valpolicella is made in a fairly lean style. It offers up an intriguing array of smoke, earthiness, tobacco, spices and dark wild cherries on a medium-bodied frame. There is nice depth here but the tannins could use a little more polish. That said, some of the rough edges softened a bit with air, and I would be tempted to open this wine 30-60 minutes prior to serving, or alternatively give it a quick double-decant upon opening. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2011. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642