The 2011 Ripasso Valpolicella Valpantena Secco Bertani is loaded tight with pressed fruit, prune, spice, tar, leather and dark licorice. A second fermentation occurs on the pomace of Amarone and Recioto that add an extra touch of sweetness to this wine. The texture is velvety and rich. Integrated acidity makes this a great choice to pair with rosemary-scented lamb or other succulent meat dishes. Drink 2014-2018. Anyone who frequented Verona’s famed Bottega del Vino wine bar in its glory days will remember the Bertani “altar” set up in the downstairs cellar. Carefully erected under its own pool of light, the shrine consisted of important vintages arranged into a giant pyramid with magnum-sized wooden cases at the base. Small church candles flickered at the perimeter. That altar to a single brand, so revered and holy to the Veronesi, always comes to mind when I taste Bertani’s wines. This cherished symbol of Valpolicella is a beacon for those who appreciate the storied winemaking customs of the region. In 2011, Bertani was purchased by Tenimenti Angelini (a branch of the Angelini Group pharmaceutical firm). Despite the new ownership, Bertani remains one of the most consistent producers of traditional Amarone. Importer: Palm Bay Imports, www.palmbay.com

The 2007 Valpolicella Ripasso Valpantena shows good refinement and balance in its red fruits, flowers, herbs, chocolate and spices. Silky, polished tannins round out the long finish. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642