The 2009 Pinot Noir West Block gives up a hint of earthy minerality along with red fruit and spice notes. It is narrower than its siblings on the palate but with ample ripe fruit and good concentration; another year or two of cellaring could help to flesh it out. Bethel Heights Vineyard is moving toward using 100% estate fruit for its wines. They produce a substantial amount of solid quality white wine and around 10,000 cases of Pinot Noir with the Willamette Valley and Estate bottlings accounting for roughly 80% of that total. And if the truth be told, and to the credit of Bethel Heights, the quality of these entry level cuvees is very close to the Vineyard and Block-designated wines at a fraction of the price.Tel. (503) 581-2262; www.bethelheights.com

The 2008 Pinot Noir West Block sports a similar aromatic profile that jumps from the glass. Denser, richer, and more succulent, it is a beautifully rendered wine that combines elegance with power. Give it 3-4 years of additional bottle age and drink it from 2013 to 2023. Bethel Heights’ most recent collection is uniformly outstanding.Tel. (503) 581-2262; www.bethelheights.com

The 2004 Pinot Noir West Block Reserve reveals creamy aromatics reminiscent of sweet oak, black cherries, and flowers. It expands wonderfully on the palate, exhibiting broad waves of red as well as black cherries. This medium to full-bodied wine is structured, with a slightly firm finish that calls for moderate cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2014. www.bethelheights.com; tel. (503) 581-2262

The 2003 Pinot Noir West Block Reserve displays aromatics of dark waxy cherries as well as roasting spices. Broad, medium-bodied, and exhibiting lovely depth of fruit, this spicy black cherry-flavored wine also displays a long, tannin-filled finish. Drink it between 2007 and 2014. www.bethelheights.com; tel. (503) 581-2262