The 2005 Pinot Noir “Seven Springs Vineyard” is similarly styled. Its fragrant raspberry and cherry-scented nose is more expressive and in the mouth the fruit is more concentrated with greater depth. It exhibits the same zesty style with lively acidity and enough tannin to support several years of cellaring. The fact the Casteel Reserve stands out from the pack (at least for this taster) raises the obvious question about blending vs. terroir. The eight Bethel Heights Pinot Noirs have far more in common than they do differences making me wonder what justifies eight separate cuvees. As a consumer, I’d rather have more Casteel. And it is, after all, essentially from one (slightly larger) terroir reflecting the Eola Hills - Amity AVA.Bethel Heights Vineyard is one of Oregon’s pioneer producers. The winery was founded in 1977 and the first vintage was in 1984. Currently, 70% of the wine comes from estate grown fruit and production stands at 13,000 cases. In addition to Pinot Noir, Bethel Heights also makes excellent Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, and Chardonnay.Tel. (503) 581-2262; www.bethelheights.com. Also tasted: 2006 Pinot Gris (88), 2006 Pinot Blanc (87), 2006 Chardonnay “Quercus” (89)

Produced from fruit acquired from one of Oregon’s finest, most consistent vineyards, the 2002 Pinot Noir Seven Springs Vineyard bursts from the glass with violets, spices, and black cherries. Medium-bodied, it is packed with gorgeously defined fruit, sports considerable depth as well as concentration, and has a sappy characteristic found in the finest Pinots. Loads of blueberries, grapes, and ripe dark cherries can be discerned in its complex personality. This wine is definitely outstanding yet has a bright future. My experience with Seven Springs Pinots is that they get even better with cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2012+. Tel. (503) 581-2262 www.bethelheights.com

A full, meaty style, mixing exotic fruits, tree bark and smoky mocha. Tart, herbal and sharp-edged, but characterful with a lively mix of layered flavors. ——W.E.(11/1/2004)—— 87