The 2009 Chardonnay "Chosen - Onyx" is, notwithstanding the oak, nicely balanced. Comparing it to its siblings reviewed this issue, it hardly has the "unoaked" Chardonnay's demeanor or even the lighter, more invigorating touch of the "Jasper" (both reviewed this issue), but it is well put together and handles its oak quite nicely. Elegant, focused and restrained, with a certain crisp and refreshing quality, it is quite pleasing in this vintage and one of the nicer whites I've seen from the winery. It should be early maturing and at its best on the younger side, however long it holds. Drink now-2013. Binyamina, Israel's fourth largest winery, is pointing out expensive renovations (14 million euros) to the winery of late. As already noted in my last look at Binyamina releases, there already seemed to be some gradual uptick in quality here, whether or not because of the improvements. In fact, not everything could possibly have kicked in by then or by now. It will be interesting to watch going forward. The chief winemaker is Sasson Ben Aharon, since 2002. Winemaker Assaf Paz, with a degree from Bordeaux, who worked at Navarro, also produces wines for his well regarded family boutique, Vitkin. Consultant Marc Dworkin of Bordeaux fame (working with Stephan von Neipperg) lends a hand as well. In descending order of prestige, at the top Binyamina has the "Chosen" brand, from the Biblical Hoshen Stones; the regular Reserves; the Yogev ("farmer") brand, named in tribute to Binyamina's growers; and the Teva brand, which includes things like Emerald Riesling and Cabernet blush. It is the Chosen series that will be of most interest and rightly so, as they are generally nicely made and quite charming. Their problem tends to be that they can be a bit pricey for what they are. Finally, "The Cave" is Binyamina's boutique brand.Importer: Royal Wine Corp., Bayonne, NJ; tel. (718) 534-0118

The 2007 CHARDONNAY “CHOSEN - ONYX” is from the Neve Ilan vineyard, aged sur lie for 16 months in 50% new French oak. There is some pretty good fruit in here, but the wine, not surprisingly, has an oak-flavored overlay that makes the fruit rather hard to find at the outset. It is gentle and rather harmonious given its age. Once past the oak, it does have considerable elegance and some style, as well as far more finesse, ageworthiness and complexity than the ’09 Chardonnay Reserve reviewed this issue. Those looking to save some bucks, though, might find, at least today and in the short term, that they are as happy with the Reserve, which is admittedly a more straightforward wine but nonetheless one that offers unadorned and tasty fruit in an harmonious presentation. At this Onyx airs out, though, the acidity comes through, the oak recedes a bit and it shows some bite on the finish. I began to like it more. There were slightly less than 2,980 bottles produced. Drink now-2012. Binyamina is one of Israel’s larger and older wine producers. The Chosen brand wines reviewed this issue are denominated with the gemstones chosen (onyx, diamond, sapphire, etc.), according to the winery, for the "breastplate of the High Priest during the time of the Second Temple.” The 2007 releases are nicely done as a group. Note: Although Binyamina does have a USA importer, all releases do not always appear and not always at the same time, necessarily, in our marketplace. As of this writing, it is not clear, for instance, if the late harvest gewurztraminer will be imported, and the 2006 releases in some labels were still current in this marketplace with ‘07s not yet available.Importer: Royal Wine Corp., Bayonne, N.J.; tel: (718) 534-0118.

The 2004 Chardonnay Onyx is the most successful of the “Chosen” wines I saw, varietally true, Burgundian-like, with some toast and nutty aromas, as well as a touch of cream early on, no doubt from the 16 months in French oak. It can seem a bit brooding at this point in its life, but its parts have integrated well. It has flavor and typicity, as well as a little intensity, and the mid-palate is elegantly constructed. The finish is quite respectable, too, at times mouth-coating. In some respects, it is its best feature. Drink now-2009. Binyamina is one of Israel’s larger and older wine producers, founded in 1952 and revitalized in 1992 when it was sold to Danny Dimbort and Avi Lerner. It produces around two million bottles a year. The Chosen label wines are denominated with gemstones chosen, according to the winery, for the "breastplate of the High Priest during the time of the Second Temple.”This is Kosher. Importer: Royal Wine Corp, Bayonne, N.J.; tel. (718) 534-0118