The 2009 CHARDONNAY RESERVE “UNOAKED” is screwcapped and from fruit grown at Kibbutz Tzuba. Fruity and tasty, it is relatively rich, made in an approachable, crowd pleasing style. It lacks the piercing acidity and austerity that some of the unoaked Chardonnays revel in—i.e, this is not a Chablis imitation. That said, some aeration does allow it to show its brightness and acidity and it becomes more and more interesting with air. In its own style, it is quite charming and most will find it rather delicious as well, perfectly balanced and hard to resist. Drink it young and fresh for best results, although it might be fine for a bit longer. I do tend to think it will decline rather rapidly. It is gorgeous now, probably as good as it gets. Drink now-2012. Binyamina is one of Israel’s larger and older wine producers. The Chosen brand wines reviewed this issue are denominated with the gemstones chosen (onyx, diamond, sapphire, etc.), according to the winery, for the "breastplate of the High Priest during the time of the Second Temple.” The 2007 releases are nicely done as a group. Note: Although Binyamina does have a USA importer, all releases do not always appear and not always at the same time, necessarily, in our marketplace. As of this writing, it is not clear, for instance, if the late harvest gewurztraminer will be imported, and the 2006 releases in some labels were still current in this marketplace with ‘07s not yet available.Importer: Royal Wine Corp., Bayonne, N.J.; tel: (718) 534-0118.