Among full-bodied, old-vines Malbec, this is an unbridled winner. The nose is rooty and sweet, but also inky and dark. And the palate is totally pure, with snappy tannins, fine acidity and loads of black fruit flavor mixed with tobacco and coconut. Racy, juicy and delicious as it enters its prime. Drink now through 2013. ——M.S.(7/1/2010)—— 92