Flowery and fresh on the nose, with lemon-lime aromas. The palate is smooth, not too demanding or rough, and tastes of papaya and green banana. It’s a dry sparkler with not too much flavor, but it’s honest, with a good bouquet and feel to it. ——M.S.(12/31/2010)—— 85

The 2008 Sparkling Chardonnay is medium straw-colored with a delicate mousse, crisp mineral and white fruit flavors, good balance, and a medium-long finish. Drink it over the next 2 years. Importer: Winebow, Inc., Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2007 Sparkling Chardonnay is medium straw-colored with a delicate mousse, excellent mineral and white fruit flavors, a stylish personality, and a crisp, lengthy finish. Both of these sparkling wines are excellent values for drinking over the next 1-2 years. Alma Negra (“dark soul”) is a collaboration between Ernesto Catena and Alex Bartholomaus, son of pioneer importer Alfredo Bartholomaus.Importer: Billington Imports, Springfield, VA; tel. (703) 455-4700; fax (703) 455-0450; www.billingtonwines.com