The bottle of the 2016 La Vicalanda Gran Reserva (and the 2017 Vi?a Zaco) was so huge and heavy that I initially thought they had sent me a magnum but later discovered that it was a regular bottle, just ridiculously oversized. But what I found inside was much more proportioned, despite being a little ripe at 15% alcohol and showing some generous oak; it spent two years in small barrels, 70% of them new, when I see much more moderate oaking in other wines, even going back to larger foudres in many cases. But it is balanced in its XL way. 5,000 bottles were filled in January 2019.

This time I found the 2010 La Vicalanda Gran Reserva to be quite similar to the more traditional Vi?a Pomal Gran Reserva, despite this Vicalanda being distinctly more modern and especially tannic. They share a savory profile, and while I prefer the soft texture of the Pomal, it's a matter of taste, as the quality level is very similar. 6,600 bottles produced.

The 2009 La Vicalanda Gran Reserva is a modern Gran Reserva, which is a bit of an oxymoron, as the wine doesn't know if it wants to be classic or modern; it's also a varietal Tempranillo, quite contrary to the tradition. But anyway, that might be me. The wine shows notes of Marmite and cigar ash, a hint of leather and licorice over a core of very ripe fruit. The palate shows better integration of the oak, with finer tannins and good balance. The palate is much better than the nose. 6,000 bottles produced.

The 2008 La Vicalanda Gran Reserva shows plenty of balsamic aromas of incense and cigar ash, spices, hints of leather and cured meat and ripe fruit. The palate, as many of its siblings, shows abundant grainy, dusty tannins that provide for an astringent sensation where the fruit gets muted. The wine aged for two years in barrel, which for most fruit is way too much, and the fruit seems to be receding. Nice now, but I'd drink it sooner rather than later. 6,000 bottles.

The 2005 La Vicalanda Gran Reserva comes from the same vineyard but is raised entirely in French oak, of which 70% is new. Again, the nose has little to say despite leaving the glass to one side to aerate. The palate is better, with sappy dark red berry fruit laced with balsamic, quite sturdy tannins and a harmonious, quite elegant finish that has more complexity and persistency than the Reserva. It has good substance and should age well over the following decade. Drink now-2022. Importer: Aveniu Brands, Baltimore, MD; tel. (410) 884-9463