The 2011 Arco del Reloj is their old-vine, limited-production cuvee, which is quite marked by the oak. While the nose shows a combination of spices, smoke and black fruit, the full-bodied palate is dominated by tannins that make it feel a bit harsh, but that might get polished with time in bottle. Seeing the 2010 drying out already I have doubts. Drink 2015-2017. Covitoro, the Cooperative of Toro, is the largest producer in the appellation, with 1.5 million bottles produced per year from the 900 hectares of vineyards belonging to its 188 members. I found inconsistency in some of the wines tasted, and some of them could not be recommended. Importer: Regal Wine Imports, CA; tel. (707) 836-2100

The 2010 Arco del Reloj is quite similar to the 2011, if marginally fresher, but unfortunately the tannins completely dominate the wine. I’m not sure this is going to improve with time, so I’d opt for drinking it soon with a powerful stew or something similar. Drink now. Covitoro, the Cooperative of Toro, is the largest producer in the appellation, with 1.5 million bottles produced per year from the 900 hectares of vineyards belonging to its 188 members. I found inconsistency in some of the wines tasted, and some of them could not be recommended. Importer: Regal Wine Imports, CA; tel. (707) 836-2100

The 2009 Arco del Reloj comes from vines planted between 1880 and 1920 that yield just one kilogram per vine. Aged for 14 months in French and American oak, it has a well-defined, quite masculine nose with touches of tobacco infusing the broody black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, good acidity and harmony, exerting a gentle but insistent grip on the mouth. This is actually a classy, quite sophisticated, well-crafted wine that does justice to those ancient vines. Just 4,882 bottles were produced. Drink 2014-2020+ These wines from the only major co-operative in Toro were a little coarse at the lower end. Importer: Regal Wine Imports, CA; tel. (707) 836-2100