The 2010 Gran Cermeno is relatively simple, with a fruit-driven nose of plums with a background of used oak, incense and old loft aromas. The palate is medium-bodied, with balancing acidity and integrated tannins. Drink now. Covitoro, the Cooperative of Toro, is the largest producer in the appellation, with 1.5 million bottles produced per year from the 900 hectares of vineyards belonging to its 188 members. I found inconsistency in some of the wines tasted, and some of them could not be recommended. Importer: Regal Wine Imports, CA; tel. (707) 836-2100

The 2007 Gran Cermeno Crianza exhibits aromas of cedar, smoke, game, and assorted black fruits. Ripe and mouth-filling, it is an excellent value that will provide enjoyment for another 5 years. Importer: Beacon Wine Company, San Francisco, CA; Tel: (415) 970-8192