The 2009 Leirana is 100% Albarino sourced from 60-year-old vines. It was naturally fermented and aged in stainless steel. Aromas of mineral, nutmeg, jasmine, peach, and tropical aromas inform the nose of this smooth-textured, vibrant Albarino. In the glass peach and tangerine notes make an appearance leading to a lengthy, pure finish. Drink this brilliant effort over the next 4-5 years. Importer: Peninsula Wines, New Rochelle, NY; www.oleimports.com

The price is too elevated given that the wine is simple and already fading. Aromas of peach and melon are soft and a touch mealy, and so is the palate, which has a flat feel and flavors of papaya, melon and apple. Finishes pulpy and with the first hints of maderization.——M.S.(7/1/2011)—— 86

The white wines begin with the 100% Albarino 2008 Leirana. Light gold-colored, it has a mineral-accented perfume with a hint of saline and lemon zest. Crisp, intense, and stony on the palate, this vibrant, lively wine will drink well for another three years. The Forja del Salnes wines are made in a small garage by Raul Perez.Importer: Jose Pastor, Vinos and Gourmet; info@vinosandgourmet.com

The 2006 Leirana is made from 40-year-old Albarino vines. The wine spent 120 days on its lees and was bottled without fining or filtration (as are all of these wines). Medium straw-colored, it offers up an enticing perfume of slate, ocean breeze, lemon, and tropical aromas. Offering considerably more richness and depth than most wines made from Albarino, as well as a creamy texture, it is beautifully balanced and lengthy. Drink it over the next 1-2 years. Importer: Jose Pastor, Vinos and Gourmet, Richmond, CA; tel. (510) 237-0077