Bodegas Godeval Revival, Valdeorras, Spain

歌德依福爾酒莊復(fù)興白葡萄酒

點擊次數(shù)：595

I was truly impressed by the 2018 Revival, which is really Re.Vi.Val and stands for "Reestructuración Vi?edos Valdeorras" or Valdeorras vineyards restructuring, the project they launched in the 1980s to save Godello from extinction. It's complex, layered and subtle, insinuating rather than in your face, combining power and elegance, round and polished, sleek, but with lively freshness. It's produced with a selection of Godello from a vineyard called Vi?a Sancho planted 36 years ago at 560 meters in altitude on brown slate soils that yield 2,800 kilos per hectare. Only 2,500 bottles produced.

Unfortunately the 2015 Revival had not yet been bottled when I tasted it, even though I tasted the previous vintage some 16 months ago. The tank sample I tasted was subtle and harmonious. There was a bittersweet sensation on the finish, which confirmed the data of 4.3 grams of sugar, somehow compensated by acidity, but I'd have preferred it dry. This comes from a vineyard on slate soils called Pancho on the right margin of the Sil River. It was kept sur lie for four months. 5,000 bottles produced.

The new luxury cuvée presented in a heavy Burgundy bottle and a long cork, the 2014 Revival, is pure Godello from a south-facing vineyard known as 'Pancho' on a sunny slope on slate soils. The grapes were cooled down to 0-2 degrees Celsius and then macerated with the skins in the press for some 12 hours. The must fermented with neutral yeasts at 16 degrees Celsius, and the wine was kept in contact with the fine lees for four months, and those lees were stirred twice per week. The nose shows some restraint initially and takes some time to take off. Some white flowers, hints of pollen, beeswax and quince appear with time. It's fresh and balsamic, subtle rather than in your face. There is good balance and freshness with a subtle thread of acidity that lifts the wine up. The finish is quite long and tasty, somehow mineral, almost salty. 5,000 bottles were filled in June 2015.