The just released 1989 Gran Reserva is available in magnums only (5,952 of them). This wine spent six months in wood vats, 30 months in French and American oak, and three years in the bottle prior to release. Ruby/garnet-colored with a pink rim, it boasts a spectacular nose of cedar, lead pencil, sweet, jammy cherry fruit, minerals, and dried herbs. Mushroom, sweet earth, truffles, black cherries, and herb flavors emerge on the palate. Rich, complex, and sweet, this generously proportioned, profoundly complex, multidimensional Rioja can be drunk now as well as over the next 10-12 years. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

The 1987 Gran Reserva is typical of the traditional style of Spanish Rioja. Very light in color, with aromas of wood, currants, tobacco, and smoke, this graceful, elegant, silky-textured wine should continue to drink well for 5-7 years.This is one of Spain's most traditionally run wineries.Importer: Fine Estates From Spain, 75 Fox Meadow Lane, Dedham, MA 02026; tel. (617) 461-5767 and fax (617) 461-2570