The 2014 Cosme Palacio 1894 had some herbal and spicy notes and is quite balsamic. It's pure Tempranillo (previous vintages had some Graciano) that fermented in small tanks and matured in new and used 500-liter French oak barrels for 15 months. It's the most modern of all their reds, quite fruit-driven, balanced and clean, with fine tannins and nicely integrated oak. It should develop nicely in bottle. 2,482 bottles.

The 2012 Cosme Palacio 1894 a blend of 92% Tempranillo and 8% Graciano from diverse vineyards around Laguardia; it matured in 500-liter French oak barrels (one-third new) for 18 months. Definitively modern and fruit-driven, quite subtle, with contained ripeness, it's very balanced and clean, with nicely integrated oak. The palate shows a similar profile, where everything seems to be in sync. I was very surprised--positively surprised, that is! 2,874 bottles.

The 2010 Cosme Palacio 1894 displayed a dark, almost black color and some overripe aromas of black fruits, bruised apples and melon. The palate is also revealing overripe flavors and some soft tannins. Drink 2014-2017. Bodegas Palacio in Laguardia is not to be confused with Palacios Remondo in Alfaro. It was founded in 1894 by Cosme Palacio, and remained in the hands of the Palacio family until it was sold in 1972 and again in 1987 to Jean Gervais, Seagram Europe’s former vice president, and a group of investors. Gervais created one of the first truly modern Riojas in the 1980s with the help of Michel Rolland, Cosme Palacio y Hermanos, a more concentrated and fruity wine where the oak aging had been shortened to one year and the oak used was French rather than American. The wine was a success. In 1998, the winery was sold to the Entrecanales group, today called Acciona, one of the largest business groups in Spain, who also own Arrayan in Mentrida, Vina Real in Ribera del Duero and Barcelo, makers of the popular brand, Penascal. They do not own vineyards but have long term agreements with some 60 grape growers from Laguardia which allows them to produce around 1.5 million bottles of wine per year. Vina Perdiz is the entry level label, Glorioso brand has a very accessible profile, while Cosme Palacio keeps faithful to the style they created in the late 1980s. Imported by Bronco Wine Co, Ceres, CC; tel. (209) 272-3000; www.broncowine.com

The 2008 Cosme Palacio 1894 Tinto is a blend of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano that spent 15 months in French oak. Medium purple in color, it proffers an inviting bouquet of Mediterranean herbs, spice box, mineral, cedar, boysenberry and blackberry. On the palate it displays excellent density, savory flavors, layered fruit, and an overall elegance. Drink it from 2014-2028 Bodegas Palacio makes some wine (all 100% Tempranillo) under the Glorioso label. Importer: HAB North America; Tel. (561) 289-2852

The purple-colored 2007 Cosme Palacio 1894 is 95% Tempranillo and 5% Graciano sourced from 90-year-old vines and aged in a mix of new and used French oak. It presents a nose of cedar, pencil lead, espresso, incense, and blackberry leading to a medium to full-bodied wine with some elegance, complex flavors, and a lengthy, fruit-filled finish. Give it 3-5 years of additional cellaring and drink it from 2013 to 2027. Importer: HAB North America, www.rgrant@habarcelo.es