The balsamic, ripe and developed 2015 Cosme Palacio 1894 Blanco, mostly Viura with some 7% Malvasía, fermented in 500-liter barrels in cold storage, where it matured in contact with the lees for seven months. It's quite complex, oaky and nuanced, with a fresh but powerful palate with notes of pollen, honey, herbal tea and white flowers. It's dry and fresh. It should develop nicely in bottle. Only 1,350 bottles were filled in June 2016.

One of the oakiest white Riojas is always a wine from Palacio, like this 2011 Cosme Palacio 1894 Blanco. It is mostly Viura with some 7% Malvasía fermented in 500-liter barrels where it matured in contact with the lees for eighty months. It has a bright yellow color and a nose of sawdust, roasted nuts and smoke. It takes time to develop more aromas like yeast and a touch of pollen. The palate is somewhat austere, with intense flavors reminiscent of the aromas found in the nose ending with a slightly drying sensation that gets mixed with a chalky minerality that sticks to your teeth. 3,768 bottles produced.

The 2010 Cosme Palacio 1894 white is produced from 60-year-old Viura grapes with 5% of Malvasia grown close to Laguardia and aged on their lees for ten months in French oak barrels of second and third use. It has a bright golden color, and a nose redolent of roasted nuts, honey, beeswax and candied quince. With a little bit of time and air it develops aromas of dry flowers and chamomile tea. The medium-bodied palate reveals a wine that is fluid with pungent flavors, good acidity and a mild bitter aftertaste. A traditional oak-aged white that should please the fans of the style and should last well. Drink 2014-2020. Bodegas Palacio in Laguardia is not to be confused with Palacios Remondo in Alfaro. It was founded in 1894 by Cosme Palacio, and remained in the hands of the Palacio family until it was sold in 1972 and again in 1987 to Jean Gervais, Seagram Europe’s former vice president, and a group of investors. Gervais created one of the first truly modern Riojas in the 1980s with the help of Michel Rolland, Cosme Palacio y Hermanos, a more concentrated and fruity wine where the oak aging had been shortened to one year and the oak used was French rather than American. The wine was a success. In 1998, the winery was sold to the Entrecanales group, today called Acciona, one of the largest business groups in Spain, who also own Arrayan in Mentrida, Vina Real in Ribera del Duero and Barcelo, makers of the popular brand, Penascal. They do not own vineyards but have long term agreements with some 60 grape growers from Laguardia which allows them to produce around 1.5 million bottles of wine per year. Vina Perdiz is the entry level label, Glorioso brand has a very accessible profile, while Cosme Palacio keeps faithful to the style they created in the late 1980s. Imported by Bronco Wine Co, Ceres, CC; tel. (209) 272-3000; www.broncowine.com

The 2009 Cosme Palacio 1894 White is a blend of 92% Viura and 8% Malvasia that is fermented in new oak barrels. It has a lifted, honeyed bouquet with vanilla, marzipan and almond notes, while the palate has fresh acidity and nicely integrated creamy oak that lends it a Californian appeal. Drink now-2014. Importer: HAB North America, www.rgrant@habarcelo.es

The wines bottled under the Cosme Palacio label begin with the one white offering, the 2008 Cosme Palacio 1894 Blanco, made from a co-fermented blend of 95% Viura and 5% Malvasia, which was barrel-fermented and aged for 9 months in French oak. The grapes were sourced from low-yielding vines over 8o years of age. The wine was fermented slowly and not put through malolactic fermentation resulting in a finished wine of 12.5% alcohol. Light gold in color with an alluring bouquet of popcorn, mineral, nutmeg and other baking spices, spring flowers, and pear, on the palate it is round, concentrated, and exceptionally elegant. This intensely flavored, incipiently complex offering is likely to evolve for several years and drink well for 10-15 years. Bodegas Palacio makes some wine (all 100% Tempranillo) under the Glorioso label. Importer: HAB North America; Tel. (561) 289-2852