Spice, tobacco and berry fruit work the nose on this firm, medium-bodied Ribera wine. A mouthfeel that’s fresh and snappy might be seen as short and choppy by anyone seeking more extract and body, but overall the wine pushes forward with purpose and intent. Firmness is its calling card, so look for a tightness of being and no excess fat, oak or heft. A good wine for food.——M.S.(2/1/2009)—— 87