The more classical 2012 Gran Reserva has aromas of roasted sunflower and sesame seeds, a diesel-like mineral touch and jammy fruit. The palate is mostly about its time in oak, revealing plenty of wood flavors and a dry texture with plenty of granular, powdery tannins. One that needs food. Ready now. 50,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in March 2015.

The 2010 Gran Reserva matured in barrel for 18 months. I always expect this wine to have a more classical profile, but in fact it's quite modern with upfront fruit that is ripe, a creamy nose of ripe red and black fruit, plenty of spices, and a lactic touch intermixed with aromatic herbs and a hint of soil. The palate is both powerful and elegant, with fine tannins and some bittersweet flavors in the finish. A modern, balanced, powerful Ribera. 50,000 bottles.

The 2009 Gran Reserva is supposedly the classical style and has a Mediterranean nose of aromatic herbs (thyme, oregano) and menthol, with ripe black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied, with abundant dusty tannins, slightly drying, not that expressive. It ends dry and doesn-t deliver much pleasure. Drink now-2016. Protos is a cooperative in Penafiel which has 273 members and was created in 1927. Imported by Aviva Vinos, New York, NY; tel. (212) 244-4495, www.avivavino.com

The 2006 Gran Reserva has a lifted bouquet of macerated red cherries, chocolate and over-ripe oranges. The palate is succulent on the entry with lush black fruit laced with tar and white pepper, leading to a weighty finish that will need a few more years to mellow. It has great substance, but needs time to develop the panache. Drink 2016-2022. Originating from the Greek word for “first”, Protos was founded back in 1927 by 15 local winemakers, who created the Cooperativa Ribera del Duero. Their modern winery is located in Anguix in Burgos in the shadow of the splendid Penafiel castle. Opened in 2008 and designed by no less than Richard Rogers. I am going to commence with a couple of wines from Rueda that the bodega produces as they are worth seeking out. Importer: Winebow Inc., Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2004 Gran Reserva is light purple-colored with aromas of scorched earth, mineral, violets, incense, and compote of black fruits. Structured on the palate with some of the lush character of the vintage, it will evolve for another 2-3 years and drink well through 2024. Importer: R V Distributors, Jersey City, NJ