The fresh 2013 Clave de Tábula is pure Tempranillo from a single, head-pruned vineyard in Roa called La Morejona that was planted in 1959 and is located at 830 meters altitude. The nose is harmonious and nuanced, with some spices and hints of earth. The palate is medium to full-bodied, with abundant tannins, good freshness and balance. 2,500 bottles.

The 2011 Clave de Tabula is Tempranillo from a single, head-pruned vineyard in Roa, La Morejona, planted in 1959 and located at 850 meters altitude. The nose shows savory aromas, ripe fruit and plenty of influence from the oak, peat, vanilla, smoke and clove. The palate is full, with lots of tannins that feel chewy and dusty, diminishing its drinkability and overall sensation. I wish this wine had had a gentler elevage, as the fruit is obviously very good. Wait and see: if it’s able to integrate the oak my score will have been too conservative. Drink 2014-2018. Tabula was created in 2002. They work vineyards in Olivares de Duero in the province of Valladolid where they are located, and also in Roa and La Horra in Burgos. Multiple U.S. importers: Las Arribes, LLC., Vine Imports and Vitis Imports

The 2010 Clave de Tabula spent a month less in oak barrel than the 2009. It has a lovely bouquet with vibrant raspberry and red currant aromas, a touch of sous-bois and graphite evolving with time. The palate is medium-bodied and without the voluptuousness of the 2009, although the tannins seem a little finer and as a consequence there is greater elegance and finesse toward the finish. This has very good potential. Bodegas Tabula is situated close to the village of Olivares del Duero. They cultivate 24 hectares of vine on rich, limestone soils in the middle of which lies the modern-looking, two-story winery that I visited during my stay. The philosophy here is to respect and translate the terroir of Ribera del Duero and they do a fine job, in particular at the entry-level end and the Damana range, which is where we begin. The Damana 5 is pure Tempranillo from the 10-year-old Tabula vineyard that is aged in 80% French and 20% American oak barrels for five months. Importer: several including Casa Ventura Imports wwwvinocava.net and Vitis Imports, Inglewood, CA; tel. (310) 674-1112 and www.bibendum-wine.co.uk (UK).

The 2009 Clave de Tabula is sourced from 52-year-old Tempranillo planted at 900-meters, the highest part of La Morejona, and aged for 14 months in French oak, plus a further four in foudres for assemblage. It has an intriguing, tertiary bouquet with scents of burnt toast and graphite that blossom wildly in the glass. The palate is full-bodied with tense, gripping tannins. It is tightly coiled and brimming with tension, the tannins on the finish exerting a vice-like grip, though it retains a good sense of delineation. It just needs a little more persistency and presence on the finish to be truly convincing, but it is very expressive and full of freshness. Drink 2015-2025. Bodegas Tabula is situated close to the village of Olivares del Duero. They cultivate 24 hectares of vine on rich, limestone soils in the middle of which lies the modern-looking, two-story winery that I visited during my stay. The philosophy here is to respect and translate the terroir of Ribera del Duero and they do a fine job, in particular at the entry-level end and the Damana range, which is where we begin. The Damana 5 is pure Tempranillo from the 10-year-old Tabula vineyard that is aged in 80% French and 20% American oak barrels for five months. Importer: several including Casa Ventura Imports wwwvinocava.net and Vitis Imports, Inglewood, CA; tel. (310) 674-1112 and www.bibendum-wine.co.uk (UK).

The 2008 Clave de Tabula is the Bodega’s curtsy to a more contemporary style. It spent 14 months in French oak followed by 4 months in foudre. Dense, backward, and structured, it has all the right stuff but patience will be required. Give it 6-8 years of additional cellaring and drink this currently brooding behemoth from 2017 to 2033. Bodegas y Vinedos Tabula’s newest releases are first-class, all made from 100% Tempranillo. Importer: Casa Ventura Imports, Bellingham, WA; Tel. (360) 303-1760