Serious, with sweet fruit as well as depth, glycerin, and potency is the 2002 Tresantos Vendimia Seleccionada. From 50-year old Tinto de Toro vines, it exhibits berry fruit, licorice, smoke, and earth characteristics. Drink it over the next 3-4 years.Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

Although the 2000 Vendimia Seleccionada exhibits more oak, muscle, and chunky fruit, it is a foursquare, deep, rich offering. It should outlive its less expensive sibling by 2-3 years.Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767