The 2016 Paso A Paso is pure Tempranillo from La Mancha sold as Vino de la Tierra de Castilla, the generic regional appellation. 2015 was a dry and early harvest. It fermented in stainless steel vat and matured in vats and in well-seasoned 225-liter oak barrels for six months. It's fruit driven, expressive, juicy and clean, very pleasant and straightforward. 120,000 bottles produced.

Even better is the 2015 Paso a Paso Tempranillo (Nonorganic). This has a purple label, versus the blood-orange label of the organic cuvée, and is from vines planted in1970, but not subject to organic cultivation. This unfiltered 100% Tempranillo shows blueberry and black raspberry fruit and a big, spicy, medium to full-bodied mouthfeel with loads of fruit. It is a much richer, bigger and deeper wine than its organic counterpart. Drink it over the next several years.

There are also two cuvées of the 2014 Paso a Paso Tempranillo, one made with organic grapes and the other non-organic. I thought they were identical, both made from 100% Tempranillo in sand and clay soils with underlying chalk. The 2014 Paso a Paso Tempranillo shows soft, ripe strawberry and cherry fruit, a dark ruby color, light to medium body, virtually no tannin and a straightforward personality, but with nice, fleshy fruit. Like its sibling, this one is aged completely in stainless steel. Drink now.

Slightly richer than its organic counterpart is the 2013 Paso a Paso Tempranillo, a 100% Tempranillo cuvée made from non-organic fruit. Made from 44-year-old vines (an unreal age for a $9 wine), it possesses a deep ruby/purple color as well as plenty of sweet black cherry and blackcurrant fruit intermixed with damp earth and underbrush notes. The wine is a meaty, fleshy, dense, Spanish fruit-bomb to enjoy over the next year or so.

The 2012 Paso a Paso Tempranillo (non-organic) is even better. Aged six months in neutral French oak, it displays a savory, slightly fleshier style than its organic cousin. A sleeper of the vintage, it reveals a deep plum/purple color along with a sweet bouquet of black currants and jammy black cherries, excellent purity and texture, and a medium-bodied finish. This delicious red is an outrageous value. Drink it over the next 1-2 years. Bodegas Volver, a joint venture between importer Jorge Ordonez and Rafael Canizares, produces wines from huge holdings of 252 acres in La Mancha, 457 acres in Alicante and 125 acres in Jumilla. Some of the wines are fashioned from organic grapes, which is made clear on the label. Importer: Jorge Ordonez Selections,Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767: email:corporate@jorgeordonez.com