Among richly structured Bierzo wines, this is a dandy. Thick, jammy aromas with a cookie quality kick it off, and then comes a tidal wave of blackberry, pastry and mocha flavors. By now you’re saying “wow,” and then comes a warm, subtle, chocolaty finish. More rich and hedonistic than varietal or terroir-driven. Drink now–2012.——M.S.(12/15/2009)—— 93